Thursday, July 10, 2014

The Twin Falls at Twin Falls, and more besides

Monday, 30th June
Last Look At Craters Of The Moon
Whoosh! It’s pack and go this morning! One last walk around some of the lava fields, where I re-inspect the lovely yellow flower I found last night, when I had chosen to take evening pictures rather than go for a run.  That was pleasant, but limited as there was no real sunset, apart from the sun going down behind a rather large hill, though I found a plant that looked very much like a thistle, but with a lovely yellow flower, but I did not get a very good pic as it was getting dark, hence my return in the morning.  The plant I have now found out is called Blazing Star (Mentzelia laevicaulis) and is a night flowering plant, which I think is quite unusual (but then that is possibly just me) as well as beautiful.
Blazing Star - Night Blooming Flower!

Goodales Cut Off
Our plan to day is straight forward, but will be modified as we progress. Our original plan has been to drive West and camp at Hegarman, but we are now going via a southerly loop to take in the waterfalls of Twin Falls. We drive out of the COTM NP leaving the lava behind, only to find that the road simply skirts along the edge of the lave field, which stretches for mile after mile after mile. Did I mention about Goodales Cutoff? No it is not a surgical procedure. For an empty space on the map Southern Idaho has a lot of history. We have now found ourselves driving along the very route that many of the settlers travelled in the 1800’s to take up the land freely given to them under the Homesteaders Act. The whole route is called the Oregon Trail, this section was an improved part of the route which cut across the lava fields. It has constantly been in our minds the human endeavour that went into those people crossing such inhospitable lands, I think I mentioned it back at Columbia Gorge and the Scrublands of Washington State, but here the emigrants had to travel across miles of black, very sharp, very hot, very craggy lava beds, often barefoot, and get wagons across it as well.
The Manhattan Diner in Shoshone City
After about 30 miles the lava fields of COTM NP gave way to the lava fields that were not part of the park, amazing scenery, but boring to describe, apart from rough black rock covered by sage and scrub. We stopped in Shoshone for a cuppa. Talk about one horse, one stop light, sleepy railtown, wow Shoshone has got it all. The railroad (only freight now) runs down the middle of the town and the Victorian fronted saloons and shops sitting in the sunshine of clear blue skies actively exude sleepiness. Anyway we found the Manhattan CafĂ© and stopped in for our drink, slipping badly on the diet front I had a cinnamon roll, which although only $2.19 was massive, fresh and home made, Sally slipped into a ‘scone’, which I think was really a posh word for Navajo Fry Bread, which is a donut style dough deep fried sprinkled with cinnamon sugar – Oh Yummy. Like those old horror films of people arriving and being overcome with sleepiness and being trapped forever, and our bodies would then be used for all sorts of interesting practises, we could feel the soporific nature of this place, so we got out quickly and continued South to Twin Falls. However we had been warned in a dream (no actually the waitress mentioned it) that we should look for the Perrine Bridge on our way to Twin Falls. 

The Perrine Bridge
We didn’t have much trouble there as the road goes across this massive steel arch bridge, where it meets and crosses the Snake River. Yes we have returned once more to this great river. The bridge crosses a gorge, 1500ft long and 486 ft above the river it is pretty impressive, as the is the river gorge. We stopped and took pics, talked to a lovely couple from Texas who were here on a course to learn about Ancient Roman History. We then crossed the river to go to the visitor center, just on the south rim of the gorge, to get directions to the waterfalls (remember the waterfalls, that is why we are here), once we have this information we are about to leave when I spy a couple of people sat at the gorge rim where they appear to be packing tents into rucksacks, they have helmets, rock climbers? No, Base Jumpers. We find out that these guys throw  themselves off the bridge with a parachute. In fact the bridge is famous for its base jumping because (and here we learn a new facet of Idaho culture) it is one of the few places where it is a legal activity, no permit required, no insurance required, you can just throw yourself off the middle of the bridge and no one minds. This meant another delay while we watched the guys preparing and then watched one of them actually jump off. Quite amazing (I am sure that this is another way of describing insanity, but they were really nice guys). Our vantage point was also where Evil Knievel did his Snake River Jump/attempt in his rocket powered Sky Cycle.


At Last The Twin Falls
We really had to move on, so we now drove to Twin Falls, the waterfalls, which is now a park and an HEP station, however the falls are not quite what they were as one of the falls has been dammed to help with the power production. We then travelled a few miles to the Shoshone Falls, now these were spectacular, they say they are twice the height of Niagara Falls (the American side I expect, which is smaller than the Canadian bit). Here we had our lunch being most impressed with the lovely sight of this waterfall, reinforcing our respect for the power and size of the Snake River.


We were now running out of energy so decided not to make a further detour to Balancing Rock SP (another time perhaps) and instead used the Interstate 84 to drive directly to our campground in the almost equally sleepy (as Shoshone) town of Hegarman, where we stopped in the local and very pretty Hegarman RV Village.

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Craters Of The Moon National Park

Sunday, 29th June
We are now running against the tide of our time available here. Having planned to visit Craters Of The Moon Nat.Monument (COTM), we have had to shorten it to a one night stay in the campground, hoping to get there early enough to ensure a campsite and leave us enough time to see this wonderful park. Then, Oh Dear! Our neighbours at Snake River RV told us about Shoshone Falls, near Twin falls, so now we have to squeeze that in, which involves a 30 mile detour and allowing time to visit the falls and see where Evil Knievel jumped the Snake River. OK, we can do that tomorrow. Then as we drive towards the COTM we remember that we have to pass EBR-1, Experimental Breeder Reactor Number 1, the worlds first nuclear power plant, which started producing electricity (albeit for research) in 1951. It was quite interesting, but really it was about seeing where it was done first. Interestingly we have driven about 30 miles down out of the mountains to Idaho Falls, where there is lots of agriculture (potatoes) along the Snake River, but to get to the COTM we drive away from the river and straight into desert for 80 miles. The point about the nuclear facility is that if something happened the land is so desolate that they thought no one would notice if a nuclear explosion happened there.
 
After the nuclear power plant museum we found time to stop in Arco at The Pickle Place, which was a very 70’s diner, for a cuppa and share a cinnamon roll before we arrived at COTM by about 12.00, to find that there was indeed space for us to camp, though it was filling fast while we were setting up and having lunch. This campground is right in amongst the lava flows, similar to the Valley Of Fires SP we stayed at in New Mexico in 2011. Very strange environment, but interesting. We then spent the afternoon driving round the lava field trail, visiting all the different forms of lava and looking at the variety of life that can survive in this bleak environment. We even ended up in the middle of a Spatter Cone, a “small”, hollow cone, created when molten rock is spat out of a hole in the ground, building a wall of rock around itself. As usual, quite fascinating.